Thursday 4 June 2009

Thailand - Food

For all of you foodies out there, I wanted to sum up our experiences with the food here. My apologies that the previous posts have been so light on culinary content, but it was my intent to put it all in one post.




After first arriving, we stuck to some foods we knew our stomachs would handle alright. Personally, I have an iron stomach, with the one exception being dairy products. Lucky for me, there is really no dairy here to speak of. Almost all of the milk is soy milk and there is not really any cheese, save for imported (read: expensive) stuff. This may sound terribly disheartening to us midwest folks, but its actually hard to think of fried rice or thai noodle dishes smothered in cheese. For some reason, it just doesn't seem like it would work. 

Anyways, our first couple meals were simple thai fried rice or fried noodles. The fried rice is actually super good, and way different from your run of the mill chinese restaurant stuff. It usually includes about half rice and half veggies plus meat, along with a lime wedge and cucumber slices on the side. Most often, a small condiment tray which has 4 glass jars filled with spicy thai chilies in oil, sugar (or palm sugar), a dark sauce (soy sauce but lighter in color), and ground chili powder. This is brought to you to season your dish to your liking. I am told that it is a common misconception that Thai cuisine does not include sugar, and you are somewhat laughed at if you omit any of the four toppings.




As we continued travelling, I was literally shocked at the variety of street food offerings. You can grab anything you could imagine, from fried dough balls (not quite donuts, but close) to fried chicken, noodle soup, delicious meats on a stick, you name it. Its relatively challenging to interact with these vendors, as I have yet to run across one who speaks any english at all. This has made street food a challenge for Christie, unless it is obviously vegetarian. That did not stop me from diving head first into the world of street cuisine :) A common sight in our trip is me standing in front of a vendor cart with my trusty Thai phrasebook trying to stammer out a legible order, with some Thai women laughing in the background. Even so, I have really really enjoyed the street food, and so has Christie when it has been chicken or meatless. Our favorite meal of the trip was Khao Soi - egg noodles in a spicy red curry broth topped with crunchy fried noodles - from a street vendor.




(we didn't take this photo - ours didn't turn out)


Another street vendor dish I enjoyed was fried chicken (just like home), with a wad of sticky rice and spicy chili dipping sauce.... I had this one for breakfast this morning. 




Some street vendors sell just small bites, like some we found in Chiang Mai on the sunday walking street. There we sampled some fried banana slices and some coconut and peanut mixtures wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. It was like the state fair, but Thai style and without all the huge sweaty people running around.


Speaking of breakfast, a lot of people asked us before the trip what Thai breakfast is like. Truthfully, I really didn't know at the time.  If you popped out of your guest house and looked around on the street, you might think a traditional thai breakfast is an energy drink and a cigarette based on the cab drivers habits.  Most of our mornings have been spent in a sit down restaurant, and they usually have a western style menu including eggs and bacon and such, although we stuck mainly to fruit and yogurt.  One morning we ordered mangos and sticky rice, thinking it was a breakfast food.  At other restaurants later in the trip we found this dish in the dessert menu, so apparently its not a breakfast item per se... But it was really good!  

Traditional Thai breakfast is a bowl of rice soup with either chicken or pork, and I had this one morning, but I was just not really in the mood for hot salty rice soup that early in the day.  Since so much food was available on the street all day long, it was not really necessary or even advantageous to eat a big breakfast, as it was somewhat overpriced compared to street food.


Some of you out there might be wondering what types of bizarre foods we encountered.  Southeast asia is notorious for eating things we might generally never consider consuming, and of course I had to try these :)  Fruits here are bizarre looking, but generally taste like, well, fruit.  We tried rambutan:



Mangosteen


Dragonfruit


Getting into the more bizarre, I tried some bugs one night at a market.  I was looking at them for a while, then after a couple beers I had the courage to order up a plate of silk worms and crickets.


The silk worms were actually surprisingly alright, and tasted mostly like salty fried crunchy bits.  Crickets however were a little too gross for me.  I felt like they were just a mess of legs and wings and didn't eat more than one of them.  The merchant was also selling HUGE cockroaches, but I didnt try any:






On the second half of our trip, we tried a lot of curries.  Red curry, green curry, yellow curry, masaman curry, you name it.  They were all really fantastic and mostly spicey.  In the past, I have been a bigger fan of less soupy indian style curries, but all of the thai ones we enjoyed were super good.  



As for snacks, there was no lack of variety available between street vendors and the old 7-11.  Chips came in some pretty wild flavors, including spicy soft shell crab, nori seaweed, and chili squid.  Christie enjoyed some chinese style filled buns, which are white dough buns filled with different things like pork or black bean paste.

Overall, we are really going to miss Thailand's delicious food.  Every time I was not really full, I ate again because I didn't want to miss any opportunity to try another dish.  Luckily, much of this can be recreated in our kitchen, but it is not as easy as popping out onto the street with a couple bucks in your pocket and grabbing a quick bite.  

Tuesday 2 June 2009

Final Day in Bangkok

Today is our last day in Bangkok, with our flight leaving around midnight. This morning I ran around to take pictures of all the things I want to remember, and then rounded up Christie for some breakfast. Our original plan was to take a train to Ayutthaya, the previous capital of Thailand (then Siam). It was sacked by Burma in 1767 and reduced to ruins. Today the city is a tourist attraction and considered an important cultural history stop. When we made it to the train station, we snagged our tickets and sat out at the platform. We waited for the train to show up.... and then waited some more. By the time it was 45 minutes late even getting in to Bangkok, we decided it was going to be too late in the day to start an hour and a half train trip on the day we were flying out, so we returned our tickets and opened our trusty guidebook to find something else to do.

By this point, it was getting to be miserably hot, and we really just wanted to relax in a park. Since we were already at the train station, I pulled out a map to look for any public parks along Bangkok's subway line (more on transit later). We boarded the relatively new subway to Lumphini Park, which is a gorgeous oasis in the heart of the city and a great escape from the noise and hustle of the city traffic. Centered around a man-made lake, this park has lots of trees and paths to walk in the shade and recuperate some energy. Walking along the shore, we saw some gross looking fish in the lake, and as I went closer to the water, a massive lizard came swimming up and came on shore. At first I thought it was a small alligator because it was so damn huge.

From Thailiand - Last Day


After screwing around in the park, we got back on the subway to try to find something to eat, since the park food court was shut down apparently. Since this is the hot season, not a lot of tourists are around and consequently things are unexpectedly closed at times. For lunch we tried to hit up an indian place in a really really busy area of the city, but we couldn't find it. After walking and walking and walking, we just popped into a burrito place that had air conditioning and ate. I know what you are thinking, a burrito place in thailand, but this street was known for its international food and popularity with expats from around the world, so its not as crazy as it sounds. The food was mediocre, but the air conditioning was top-notch.

We then embarked on a quest to find the third book in the Eragon series, since Christie had finished book two on the trip. Books take quite a while to make their way over to asia apparently, because it was hard to find, despite dropping in the US last september. We popped on to Bangkok's skytrain, which is a really high elevated mass transit line, and took it to the Victory Monument. Somewhat comically, the Victory Monument commemorates a victory over French colonial troops which granted Thailand some territory which they were then forced to evacuate four years later during WWII. It is now seen as an embarrassment and symbol of a past militaristic regime by Thais, partly due to the Western design of the monument itself. It really looks like it does not belong here.

From Thailiand - Last Day


We snagged a taxi back to our guest house and I took some more photos, including one of our guest house in Bangkok (finally):

From Thailiand - Last Day


As the photo shows, there are plants EVERYWHERE here, even in relatively poor neighborhoods. This place was really super nice and very affordable at B650 (~$20) per night with air conditioning and in-room bathroom. All of the food we ate here was awesome as well.

We made our final packing preparations, and then went downstairs to drink a couple final Chiang beers and bid farewell to the friendly staff. Christie took a picture of me with my friend Yao, who I will not forget.

From Thailiand - Last Day


25 hours of flying ahead of us.... See you on the flip side!